1 INTRODUCTION
2 A TRIP BACK lN TIME
3 SKIN AND ITS CARE
4 EMULSIONS - SOME THEORETICAL ASPECTS
4.1 Physicochemical Structure of Cosmetic Products
4.2 Modern Emulsifiers
4.3 Skin Care and Cleansing
4.4 Microemulsions
4.5 Emulsifier-Free Products
4.6 Production of Emulsions
4.7 Processes Occurring During Emulsification
4.8 Serrated Disc Disperser
5 BASIC PHYSICAL AND MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLES
5.1 Importa[...]
1 INTRODUCTION
2 A TRIP BACK lN TIME
3 SKIN AND ITS CARE
4 EMULSIONS - SOME THEORETICAL ASPECTS
4.1 Physicochemical Structure of Cosmetic Products
4.2 Modern Emulsifiers
4.3 Skin Care and Cleansing
4.4 Microemulsions
4.5 Emulsifier-Free Products
4.6 Production of Emulsions
4.7 Processes Occurring During Emulsification
4.8 Serrated Disc Disperser
5 BASIC PHYSICAL AND MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLES
5.1 Important Definitions
5.2 One-Dimensional Parallel Plates Model
5.3 Parallel Plate Measuring System
5.4 Cone-Plate Measuring System
5.5 Coaxial Cylinder Systems
5.6 Double Gap Measuring System
5.7 Flow Through Circular Capillary
5.8 Correction Methods
5.8.1 PP Measurement System
5.8.2 Cylinder Measurement Systems
5.8.3 Circular Capillaries
5.9 Deformation and Relaxation
5.10 Thixotropy and Rheopexy
5.11 Vibration or Oscillation Measurements
5.11.1 Steady and Dynamic Stress
5.11.2 Ideal Elastic Solids
5.11.3 Ideal Viscous Fluids
5.11.4 Real Solids
5.11.5 Complex Representation
6 MEASURING INSTRUMENTS
6.1 Modern Rheometer
6.2 High Shear Rheometer
6.3 Standard Viscometer
6.4 Often Used Viscometer
6.5 Automatic Sampler
6.6 In-process ln-/On-line Viscosity Measurements
6.7 Future Prospects
7 MOST IMPORTANT TEST METHODS
7.1 Stress Ramp Test
7.2 Newtonian Flow Behavior
7.3 Creep Test and Creep Recovery
7.4 The Ideal Elastic Behavior
7.5 The Ideal Viscous Behavior
7.6 Real Viscoelastic Behavior
7.7 Steady Flow Curve
7.8 Amplitude Dependence
7.9 Structure Breakdown and Build Up
7.10 Time Dependence
7.11 Frequency Test
7.12 Temperature Dependence
7.13 Combined Temperature-Time Test
8 ANALYSIS OF MEASURING RESULTS AND CORRELATIONS WITH OTHER TESTS
8.1 Yield Stress
8.1.1 Correlations of the Yield Stress with the Primary Skin Feel
8.1.2 Optimization of the Stress Ramp Test
8.1.3 Residue Emptying
8.1.4 Energy Input
8.1.4.1 Measurement of the Energy Input
8.1.5 Droplet Sizes and their Distribution
8.1.6 Pumpability of Cosmetic Emulsions
8.1.6.1 Estimation of the Maximum Shear Rate
8.1.6.2 Calculation of the Shear Stress
8.1.7 Stability Studies Using Yield Stress Measurements
8.1.8 Results Obtained
8.2 Steady Flow
8.2.1 Determination of the Measuring Time
8.2.2 Temperature Dependence of the Dynamic Viscosity
8.2.3 Secondary Skin Feel
8.2.3.1 Investigation of the Secondary Skin Feel
8.3 Oscillatory Measurements
8.3.1 Temperature Dependence of the Moduli
8.3.2 Temperature Stability
8.3.3 Rheological Swing Test for Temperature Stability
8.4 Time Temperature Superposition (TTS)
8.4.1 Softening Point
8.4.2 Freezing Point
8.4.3 Determination of the Master Curve at Constant Frequency
8.4.3.1 Determination of the Activation Energy via the Temperature
8.4.3.2 Viscosity
8.4.3.3 Arrhenius Equation
8.4.3.4 WLF Equation
8.4.3.5 First Conclusion
8.4.3.6 Determination of the Master Curve with Variable Frequency
8.4.3.7 Final Conclusion
9 INTERPRETATION
9.1 Relationships for Polymers
9.2 General Statements for Cosmetic Emulsions
10 CALIBRATION/VALIDATION
10.1 Basic Principles of Statistical Analysis
1O.1.1Normal Distribution (Gaussian Distribution)
10.1.2 Mean Value
10.1.3 True Value
10.1.4 Standard Deviation and Variance
10.1.4.1 Standard Deviation
10.1.4.2 Coefficient of Variation
10.1.5 Measured Value, Result, Random Variable
10.1.6 Population, Series, Measured Value
10.1.7 Errors and Deviations
10.1.7.1 Error Types
10.1.8 Precision
10.1.9 Accuracy
10.1.10 Trueness
10.1.11 Repeatability
10.1.12 Reproducibility
10.1.13 Outliers
10.2 Back to the Laboratory
10.2.1 Calibration Test for Oscillatory Measurements
10.2.2 Temperature
11 TIPS AND TRICKS
11.1 Materials for Geometric Systems
11.2 Cone-plate
11.3 Parallel Plate
11.4 Cylinder Systems
11.5 Cleaning Measuring Systems
11.6 Measurement Artifacts
11.7 Filling of Cone-plate and Parallel Plate Measuring Systems
11.8 Interpretation
12 DEFINITION OF COSMETICS
12.1 Cosmetics vs. Drugs
12.2 Production of Cosmetic Products
12.3 Naming, Trademark Law, Patents Law
12.4 Marketing of Cosmetic Products
12.5 Advertising Cosmetic Products
12.6 Comments
13 EXCURSION lN THE WORLD OF FOOD RHEOLOGY
13.1 A Short History of Food Rheology
13.1.1The Origins of Food Rheology
13.2 Honey
13.3 Sandwich Spreads
13.4 Cheese
13.5 Ketchup
13.6 Yoghurt
13.7 Marzipan
13.8 Starch
13.9 Foams
13.10 Chocolate
13.11 Psychorheology
14 LIST OF REFERENCES
15 SUBJECT INDEX
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