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Titre :	Cosmetic science and technology : theoretical principles and applications Ajouter au panier
Auteur(s) :	Kazutami Sakamoto Robert Y. Lochhead Howard I. Maibach Yuji Yamashita
Type de document :	Livre
Sujets :	AGENT DE SURFACE ; SUBSTANCE INORGANIQUE ; EMULSIFICATION ; POUDRE ; TENSION SUPERFICIELLE Acides aminés ; Analyse sensorielle ; Cheveux ; Chimie végétale ; Cosmétiques ; dermatologie ; Eau ; Émulsions ; Formulation (génie chimique) ; Hygiène ; Lipides ; Nanotechnologie ; Parfums ; Peau ; Peau -- Soins et hygiène ; Peptides ; Physiologie ; Polymères ; Propriété intellectuelle ; Protéines ; Psychologie ; Rayonnement ultraviolet ; Réglementation ; Rhéologie ; Risques pour la santé
Résumé :	Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications covers the fundamental aspects of cosmetic science that are necessary to understand material development, formulation, and the dermatological effects that result from the use of these products. The book fulfills this role by offering a comprehensive view of cosmetic science and technology, including environmental and dermatological concerns. As the cosmetics field quickly applies cutting-edge research to high value commercial products that have a large impact in our lives and on the world's economy, this book is an indispensable source of information that is ideal for experienced researchers and scientists, as well as non-scientists who want to learn more about this topic on an introductory level.
Editeur(s) :	Amsterdam : Elsevier
Date de publication :	2017
Format :	1 vol. (XVII-835 p.) / ill., couv. ill. en coul. / 29 cm
Note(s) :	Bibliogr. Index.
Table des matières :	Part I. General View of Cosmetic Science and Technology Chapter 1. General Aspects of Cosmetics in Relation to Science and Society: Social, Cultural, Science, and Marketing Aspects 1.1. Cosmetic Science and Society 1.2. The Establishment of Humans and Society 1.3. Society and the Foundation of Cosmetic Culture 1.4. The Culture of Cosmetics and Establishment of Cosmetic Philosophy: A Case Study in Japan 1.5. Progress of Scientific Technology and Hist[...] Part I. General View of Cosmetic Science and Technology Chapter 1. General Aspects of Cosmetics in Relation to Science and Society: Social, Cultural, Science, and Marketing Aspects 1.1. Cosmetic Science and Society 1.2. The Establishment of Humans and Society 1.3. Society and the Foundation of Cosmetic Culture 1.4. The Culture of Cosmetics and Establishment of Cosmetic Philosophy: A Case Study in Japan 1.5. Progress of Scientific Technology and History of the Cosmetics Industry in Japan 1.6. Science, Technology, and Social Demands 1.7. Science, Technology, and Marketing Chapter 2. Global Cosmetic R&D Trends Unveiled From Past IFSCC Award-Winning Papers 2.1. Introduction 2.2. The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists 2.3. Tracing the History of Articles Presented at IFSCC Congresses/Conferences 2.4. Trends Interpreted From Award-Winning Papers 2.5. Conclusion Chapter 3. Basic Physical Sciences for the Formulation of Cosmetic Products 3.1. Introduction 3.2. The Basic Sciences of Cleansing Chapter 4. Scouting to Meet Unmet Needs 4.1. Introduction 4.2. Value of Technology Scouting 4.3. Technology Scout 4.4. Scouting Organization 4.5. Organizational Scouting Models 4.6. Scouting Function 4.7. General Scouting Process 4.8. Challenges 4.9. Front-end Homework/Creation of the “Needs” Brief 4.10. Scouting Resources 4.11. Why Do You Need It? 4.12. Conclusions Chapter 5. New Aspects of Cosmetics and Cosmetic Science 5.1. The Scope of Cosmetic Science 5.2. Technologies That Support Cosmetic Science 5.3. Functions of the Skin 5.4. Conclusions Chapter 6. Psychology of Cosmetic Behavior 6.1. Prehistory of Cosmetics 6.2. History of Cosmetics 6.3. Psychology of Skin Care 6.4. Psychology of Makeup 6.5. Psychology of Fragrance 6.6. Cosmetic Behavior as an Emotion Control Device Chapter 7. Dermatological Benefits of Cosmetics 7.1. Introduction 7.2. Skin Care Products 7.3. Antiwrinkle and Antiaging Agents 7.4. Acne Cosmetics 7.5. Hair Growth Agent 7.6. Antiperspirants and Deodorants 7.7. Makeup Products 7.8. Conclusions Chapter 8. Development of Cosmetics and Intellectual Property Rights 8.1. Introduction 8.2. The Need for Intellectual Property Rights 8.3. What Is an Intellectual Property Right? 8.4. Chapter I Patent Law 8.5. Chapter II Design Patent Law 8.6. Chapter III Trademark Law 8.7. Chapter IV Copyrights 8.8. Chapter V Unfair Competition Prevention Law 8.9. Chapter VI Cooperative Research and Development Agreement in Research and Development of Cosmetics 8.10. In Conclusion Chapter 9. Regulations on Cosmetics 9.1. Introduction 9.2. Regulations on Cosmetics per Region 9.3. Labeling 9.4. Cosmetics Ingredient Restrictions 9.5. Closing Remarks Part II. Fundamental Resources for Cosmetics Chapter 10. Introduction to Cosmetic Materials 10.1. Introduction 10.2. Purposes of Cosmetic Materials 10.3. Precautions on Choosing and Using Cosmetic Ingredients 10.4. Future Challenges in Cosmetics Material Development 10.5. Closing Remarks Chapter 11. Nomenclature of Ingredients 11.1. Introduction 11.2. History 11.3. INCI Basics 11.4. Botanical Names 11.5. INCI Names and CAS 11.6. INCI Names and CosIng 11.7. Applying for an INCI Name 11.8. Conclusions Chapter 12. Water 12.1. Introduction 12.2. Basic Physical Properties and Biological Roles of Water 12.3. Cell Membranes and Water 12.4. The Skin and Water 12.5. Conclusions Chapter 13. The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products 13.1. Rheology Modifiers 13.2. Precise Molecular Tailoring for Simultaneous Enablement of Contrasting Qualities 13.3. Polymers That Modify Surfaces 13.4. Transfer-Resistant Color Cosmetics 13.5. Film-Forming Polymers in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products 13.6. Hair-Conditioning Polymers 13.7. Polymers for the Treatment of Skin 13.8. Polymers as Controlled Release Matrices 13.9. Dendritic Polymers 13.10. Polymeric Antimicrobials and Bacteriostats 13.11. Environmental and Ecological Considerations 13.12. Summary Chapter 14. Powders and Inorganic Materials 14.1. History of Powders in Cosmetics 14.2. Powders Used in Cosmetics 14.3. Conclusions Chapter 15. Surfactants 15.1. Introduction 15.2. Characteristics and Classification of Surfactants 15.3. Micellization of Surfactants 15.4. Solubility of Surfactants 15.5. Adsorption of Surfactants 15.6. Mixed Surfactant Systems 15.7. Conclusions Chapter 16. Emollients 16.1. Introduction 16.2. Types of Emollients 16.3. Evaluation of Emollients 16.4. The Future of Emollients Chapter 17. Bioactive Ingredients: Benefits of Cosmetics Stimulated Through Biological Aspects 17.1. Introduction 17.2. Development Directions of Bioactive Ingredients 17.3. Overview of Pigmented Spots 17.4. Overview of Antiaging Focusing on Wrinkling 17.5. Conclusions Chapter 18. Fragrance 18.1. Introduction 18.2. Natural Products 18.3. Aroma Chemicals 18.4. Fragrance Creation and Duplication 18.5. Polarity 18.6. Fragrance Applications 18.7. Physical Chemistry of Aroma Chemicals 18.8. Encapsulation and Controlled Release 18.9. Antibacterial Effects of Essential Oils 18.10. Malodor 18.11. Safety and Regulatory Concerns 18.12. The Regulation of Fragrance 18.13. Natural, Green, Organic, and Sustainable Fragrances 18.14. Fragrance and the Mind 18.15. The Fragrance Brief 18.16. Conclusions 18.17. A Basic Fragrance Library Chapter 19. Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins 19.1. Introduction 19.2. Chemistry of Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins 19.3. Proteins and Amino Acids as Biochemical Compounds 19.4. Amino Acids in Cosmetics 19.5. Peptides in Cosmetics 19.6. Proteins in Cosmetics 19.7. Conclusions Chapter 20. Botanical Ingredients 20.1. Introduction 20.2. Botanical Substances 20.3. Regulations Regarding Botanical Substances 20.4. Organic Cosmetics 20.5. The Effectiveness of Botanical Substances 20.6. The Future and Challenges in Botanical Substance Development 20.7. Closing Remarks Chapter 21. Functional Materials for Hair 21.1. Introduction 21.2. Functional Materials for Hair Shampoos 21.3. Co-Washing/Conditioning Washing/Cleansing Conditioners 21.4. Mild Shampoos 21.5. Alternatives for Sulfates 21.6. Pre-Damage/Pre-Shampoos 21.7. Conditioners 21.8. Interactions With Hair 21.9. Hair Damage and Its Causes 21.10. Conditioning Polymers: Silicone Oils and Derivatives 21.11. Silicone-Free Alternatives 21.12. Leading Global Hair Care Market Trends 21.13. New Age of Connectivity 21.14. Products Having “Free-From” Claims 21.15. Botanical/Herbal Ingredients 21.16. Sun Care–Inspired Solutions: Ultraviolet Protection 21.17. Skin Care–Inspired Solutions: Antipollution/Reconstruction 21.18. Color Statements/Protection/Renewal 21.19. Antiaging 21.20. Scalp Protecting 21.21. Sensorial Experience: Long-Lasting Fragrance 21.22. Sustainable Solutions: Use of Natural/Renewable Ingredients/New Product Forms 21.23. Consumer Needs and Drivers 21.24. Conclusions Chapter 22. Nanotechnology in Cosmetics 22.1. Introduction 22.2. Skin Structure and Function 22.3. Major Nanocosmeceutical Applications 22.4. Nanoparticles Used in Cosmetics 22.5. Toxicity of Nanoparticles 22.6. Safety Requisites for a Blooming Beauty 22.7. Nanomaterials and the EU Cosmetics Regulations 22.8. Nanocosmeceuticals in Market 22.9. Future Trends in Nanocosmeceuticals 22.10. Conclusions Part III. Physicochemical Aspects and Formulations Chapter 23. Wetting and Surface Characterization 23.1. Introduction 23.2. Wetting on the Flat Surfaces 23.3. Wetting on Rough Surfaces 23.4. Super Water- and Oil-Repellent Surfaces Resulting From Fractal Structure 23.5. Wetting Phenomena in Cosmetic Science and Technology 23.6. Future Perspectives on the Wetting Technologies in Cosmetics Chapter 24. Molecular Structure and Phase Behavior of Surfactants 24.1. Introduction 24.2. Notations in Phase Diagram 24.3. Phase Diagram in Surfactant System 24.4. Self-Organized Structure 24.5. Anionic Surfactants 24.6. Cationic Surfactants 24.7. Nonionic Surfactants 24.8. Sugar-Based Surfactants 24.9. Conclusions Chapter 25. Lamellar Gel Network 25.1. Introduction 25.2. Unique Advantages of Lamellar Gel Networks 25.3. α-Gel 25.4. Cetostearyl Alcohol 25.5. Surfactants for Lamellar Gel Networks 25.6. Multiphase Network Structure 25.7. Lamellar Gel (Lβ) Phase 25.8. Bulk Water Phase 25.9. Oil Phase 25.10. Fatty Alcohol Hydrated Crystal 25.11. Stability of Lamellar Gel Network 25.12. Formulation Spaces of Various Lamellar Gel Networks 25.13. Summary Chapter 26. Polymer–Surfactant Interactions 26.1. Introduction 26.2. Homopolymer–Ionic Surfactant Systems Show Association 26.3. Polyelectrolyte–Surfactant Systems May Show Two-Step Association 26.4. Amphiphilic Polymer Self-assembly 26.5. Phase Separation Is Common for Polymer–Surfactant Mixtures 26.6. Gels: Thermal Gelation, Chemical Gels, and Microgel Particles 26.7. Surfactant–Polyelectrolyte Mixtures at Interfaces Chapter 27. Rheology of Cosmetic Formulations 27.1. Introduction 27.2. Rheological Parameters and Their Measurements 27.3. Surfactant Solutions, Their Micellar Structures and Rheological Properties 27.4. Surfactant Solutions and Additives 27.5. Microemulsions 27.6. Emulsions 27.7. Hydrogels and Organogels 27.8. Foams 27.9. Liquid Crystals Chapter 28. Emulsion and Emulsification Technology 28.1. Introduction 28.2. Definition and Classification of Emulsion 28.3. Properties of Surfactant on Emulsification 28.4. Selection of Emulsifier Suitable for Applications: Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number 28.5. Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number of Oil (Required HLB Number) 28.6. Destabilizing Factors of Emulsions and Their Handling Methods 28.7. Emulsification Methods 28.8. Conclusion Chapter 29. Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions for Cosmetic Applications 29.1. Introduction 29.2. Microemulsions 29.3. Nano-emulsions 29.4. Cosmetic Applications of Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions 29.5. Microemulsion and Nano-emulsion Components 29.6. Percutaneous Absorption of Actives From Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions 29.7. Conclusions Chapter 30. Effect of Molecular Assembly for Emulsion and Gel Formulations 30.1. Introduction 30.2. Formation and the Characterization of Lyotropic Liquid Crystals and α-Gels 30.3. Molecular Assembly and Emulsion 30.4. Liquid Crystal Emulsification 30.5. Application of Molecular Assemblies to Functional Cosmetics 30.6. Conclusions Chapter 31. Liposomes for Cosmetics 31.1. Introduction 31.2. Property of Phospholipids 31.3. Liposomes 31.4. Liposome Formation Conditions 31.5. Morphology of Liposomes 31.6. Stability of Liposomes 31.7. Effectiveness of Liposome Formulations 31.8. Cutaneous Absorption of Liposome Formulations 31.9. Closing Remarks Chapter 32. Skin Care Cosmetics 32.1. Introduction 32.2. Functions of Skin Care Cosmetics 32.3. Structuring Components and Technology of Skin Care Cosmetics 32.4. Solubilization 32.5. Ultrafine Emulsification 32.6. Emulsions 32.7. Emulsification 32.8. Recent Progress of Oil-in-Water Emulsification in Skin Care Cosmetics 32.9. Conclusion Chapter 33. Body Care Cosmetics 33.1. Introduction 33.2. Body Cleansers 33.3. Mildness to Skin and Sensory Feeling 33.4. Foaming Technology 33.5. Reconsideration for Satisfying Both Detergency and Skin Mildness 33.6. Conclusion Chapter 34. Makeup Cosmetics 34.1. Introduction 34.2. Types and Characteristics of Foundations 34.3. Makeup Finishes 34.4. Other Factors 34.5. Conclusion Chapter 35. Ultraviolet Care Cosmetics 35.1. Importance of Sun Care Cosmetics 35.2. Sunscreen Agents 35.3. Required Functionality as Sun Care Cosmetics 35.4. Evaluation and Declaration of Sunscreen Capacity for Cosmetics 35.5. Summary Chapter 36. Hair Care Cosmetics 36.1. Functions of Hair Care Cosmetics 36.2. Shampoos 36.3. Hair Conditioners 36.4. Hair Styling Products 36.5. Hair Coloring Products 36.6. Permanent Hair Waving Products 36.7. Conclusions Chapter 37. Sensory Measurement—Evaluation and Testing of Cosmetic Products 37.1. Introduction—Why Sensory Analysis? 37.2. Haptic—Sensory Fundamentals 37.3. Application of Sensory for Cosmetics 37.4. Influence of Raw Material Formulation on the Sensor 37.5. Procedures and General Factors Influencing Sensory Test Methods 37.6. Methods 37.7. Focus Test Requirements of the Descriptive Profile Test 37.8. Future Outlook Chapter 38. Structural Analysis of Formulations 38.1. Introduction 38.2. Colloidal Dispersion System 38.3. Characterization of Colloids 38.4. Micelles 38.5. Liquid Crystals 38.6. Emulsions 38.7. Conclusion Chapter 39. Increasing Productivity by Reducing Carbon Footprint in Cosmetics Processing 39.1. Introduction 39.2. Understanding the Nature and Effects of Variables 39.3. The Principle of Less Is More 39.4. Low-Energy Emulsification 39.5. Different Ways to Carry Out Low-Energy Emulsification 39.6. The Importance of Finding the Z-Point 39.7. An Example of “Less Is More” Low-Energy Emulsification Processing 39.8. Low-Energy Emulsification to Prevent Batch Failure, Improve Product Quality, and Save Energy 39.9. Using Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance Method to Find Optimal Surfactant Combinations for Emulsification 3.10. Solubilization Method in Low-Surfactant Emulsification 39.11. Other Applications of “Less Is More” Principle and Low-Energy Emulsification 39.12. Conclusions Part IV. Physiological and Dermatological Aspects Chapter 40. Structure and Function of Skin From a Cosmetic Aspect 40.1. Introduction 40.2. Role of the Skin 40.3. Fundamental Structure of the Skin 40.4. Epidermis 40.5. Dermis 40.6. Appendages 40.7. Regional Variation of the Skin 40.8. Barrier Functions of the Skin 40.9. Conclusions Chapter 41. Skin Lipids 41.1. Introduction 41.2. Lipids in Skin 41.3. Epidermal Lipid Synthesis 41.4. Skin Surface Lipid 41.5. Lipid Mediators 41.6. Lipids in Cosmetics 41.7. Barrier Care (Repair) Using Cosmetics to Improve Skin Disease Chapter 42. Structural Aspects of Stratum Corneum 42.1. Introduction 42.2. X-ray Diffraction Study on Stratum Corneum 42.3. Highly Sensitive Detection of Minute Structural Change on Applying Chemical Agents 42.4. Penetration Route of Hydrophilic Molecules in Stratum Corneum 42.5. Penetration Route of Hydrophobic Molecules in Stratum Corneum 42.6. Behavior of Water in Stratum Corneum 42.7. Water Regulation Mechanism in Stratum Corneum at the Molecular Level Chapter 43. Skin Aging 43.1. Difference Between Aging and Senescence 43.2. Senescence From the Molecular Level to the Systemic Level 43.3. Progress and Issues in Senescence Research 43.4. Chronic Inflammation and Senescence 43.5. Sirtuin and Resveratrol 43.6. Strategies in Research on Skin Aging 43.7. Issues to be Resolved and Future Considerations Chapter 44. Melanogenesis 44.1. Introduction 44.2. Instances of Skin-Lightening QDs Developed in Japan 44.3. Conclusions Chapter 45. Sensitive Skin 45.1. Introduction 45.2. Assessment of Sensitive Skin 45.3. Conclusions Chapter 46. Skin Penetration 46.1. Introduction 46.2. A Little Bit About History 46.3. Skin Structure/Properties 46.4. Factors Affecting the Skin Barrier 46.5. Assessing the Skin Barrier 46.6. Overcoming the Skin Barrier 46.7. Skin Penetration 46.8. Evaluation of Skin Penetration 46.9. Future Directions Chapter 47. Effects of Air Pollution on Skin: Dermatologic Options 47.1. Introduction 47.2. Materials and Methods 47.3. Results 47.4. Discussion 47.5. Conclusions and Future Considerations Chapter 48. Hair Physiology (Hair Growth, Alopecia, Scalp Treatment, etc.) 48.1. Introduction 48.2. Basic Concepts, Hair Biology, Cause of Hair Loss, and Treatments 48.3. Hair Growth–Promoting Compounds 48.4. Light-Emitting Diodes, Lasers, and Other Cosmetic Surgeries 48.5. Growth Factor Cocktail, Cell Culture Media Injection, and Platelet-Rich Plasma 48.6. Hair Transplantation 48.7. Future Treatment in Cosmetics: Regeneration of Hair Follicles by Autologous Cell-Based Therapy for Hair Loss 48.8. Summary and Future Directions Chapter 49. Clinical Evaluation and Instrumental Techniques in Dermatology Chapter 50. Safety Evaluation 50.1. Introduction 50.2. What Is Safety? 50.3. How Should We Consider the Safety of Cosmetics and Their Ingredients? 50.4. To What Extent We Should Assure the Safety of Cosmetics? 50.5. Process of Safety Evaluation 50.6. Implementation of Safety Tests 50.7. Reevaluation After Launch 50.8. Conclusion Chapter 51. Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Ingredients 51.1. Introduction 51.2. Toxicological Study 51.3. Current Update 51.4. International Test Guidelines 51.5. International Trends in Regulatory Use for Cosmetics 51.6. Conclusion
Langue(s) :	Anglais
Identifiant :	978-0-12-802005-0
Lien vers la notice :	https://infodoc.agroparistech.fr/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=192663

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